A Tailored Tribute: Costume Designer Honors Dame Jilly Cooper's Legacy

Creating a Fashionable Memorial

When Ray Holman, the costume designer behind the hit BBC drama Rivals, was asked to create an outfit for Dame Jilly Cooper, it wasn't just another assignment. It was a deeply personal tribute to a woman whose legacy resonated far beyond the pages of her novels.

"One of the things I suggested was a blue satin suit and she adored it," Holman shared, reflecting on the collaboration that brought a touch of elegance to Cooper's final days in the spotlight. "She loved it so much she wore it to get her damehood and she wore it at the Hay festival."

Cooper's brief but impactful appearance in Rivals was not just a nod to her literary prowess, but also a tribute to the rich narrative threads that connected her work with the show's themes of ambition, rivalry, and personal style. Holman's keen understanding of fashion history—particularly how it evolved through decades—enabled him to craft an outfit that honored both Cooper's personal aesthetic and the era in which she lived.

The Weight of Memory

Working on Rivals during the second season meant Holman was present when news of Cooper's passing broke. The cast and crew were deeply affected by her death, with Holman recalling how they all gathered in the studio to process the loss together. "We were all really upset," he said. "But we carried on filming, and they told us don't go home after."

It was in that moment of collective grief that a tradition was born—a glass of champagne served to the entire cast and crew, symbolizing how Cooper would have wanted them to remember her: with joy, celebration, and an appreciation for life's finer moments. The image of Cooper, wearing her favored blue satin suit, became more than just a costume choice—it was a legacy that transcended the screen.

Fashion as Storytelling

For Holman, costume design isn't about merely creating clothes; it's about crafting visual narratives. The second season of Rivals, set in 1987 against the backdrop of a general election, required a careful balance of historical accuracy and dramatic flair. To achieve this, Holman drew upon his extensive collection of vintage Vogue magazines to ensure authenticity.

His attention to detail extended beyond fabric selection. From sourcing unique vintage jewelry at Splott market in Cardiff to working with actors like David Tennant, who embraced the period's aesthetic with enthusiasm, Holman's approach was deeply collaborative. "Everything David wears as Tony is made especially for him," he noted, underscoring how costume design serves not just the character but also the actor portraying them.

A Career Rooted in Authenticity

Despite his success in high-profile productions like Doctor Who and Broadchurch, Holman remains grounded in his working-class roots. His journey from a schoolteacher's discouragement to becoming a respected figure in costume design is a testament to the power of believing in oneself. "A careers teacher said to me that a person like me couldn't do that," he recalled. "I believed him. I went to the insurance company and, after two months, I realized I'd done the wrong thing."

That realization led him down a path of creative discovery that would ultimately shape not only his career but also his commitment to helping others from similar backgrounds. Holman co-founded Screen Craft Guild Cymru, an organization dedicated to supporting the next generation of artists in Wales, especially those seeking careers in costume design and related fields.

Legacy Through Threads

The collaboration between Ray Holman and Dame Jilly Cooper represents more than just a creative partnership—it's a celebration of how artistry and legacy can intersect. In choosing to honor Cooper through fashion, Holman not only paid tribute to her personal style but also elevated her story to new heights, ensuring that her influence would be felt long after her passing.

Through careful research, emotional resonance, and deep respect for the characters she created, Holman's work on Rivals serves as a powerful reminder of how even the smallest details—like a perfectly tailored suit—can carry immense meaning. As we reflect on the life and work of Dame Jilly Cooper, her story continues to be woven into the fabric of popular culture, guided by artists like Ray Holman who understand that fashion is not just about appearance—it's about identity, memory, and legacy.

Reflecting on Cultural Impact

In a time when digital media often overshadows traditional storytelling, projects like Rivals remind us of the enduring power of narrative. By bringing Jilly Cooper's world to life through carefully chosen costumes, Holman ensured that her influence would resonate across generations.

The suit she wore in the show was more than a costume—it was a visual symbol of her spirit and determination. In the years to come, whenever someone sees that blue satin ensemble, they will be reminded not only of Cooper's literary legacy but also of the artistic collaboration that made it all possible.