Burgundy: A Wine Doc That Tastes Like a Romantic Comedy

When Wine Becomes Cinema

Let me tell you about the most delightful disappointment I've seen in a while: "Burgundy," the latest from the dreamy duo of Michael Dweck and Gregory Kershaw. Their previous films, "The Truffle Hunters" and "Gaucho Gaucho," were visual masterpieces that told stories both intimate and expansive. But here, in their newest venture, we find something different: a film that's all about the aesthetics of a world we're barely given time to understand.

"Everything that follows is true. Exactly as we dreamed it," reads the opening title of "Burgundy." It's a sweet start to a sweet movie, but in retrospect it sounds a little defensive.

I'm not sure if the directors are being modest or just admitting defeat. Because while "Burgundy" certainly has its charms, it's a film that feels like it was made by someone who wants to be an artist more than a documentarian. That's not always a bad thing, but it's a risk that doesn't pay off here.

Wine, Not Wisdom

The movie opens with Bertrand Devillard, a patriarch of a 160-year-old winery, whose hands-on approach to running his family business makes him a man of both tradition and worry. His grandson Melchior, more interested in finance than viticulture, seems destined for the big city. Enter Enzo — a handsome young man with the kind of classic good looks that make him look like he stepped out of a 1950s film, and his heart set on becoming a vintner himself.

Enzo comes to work at his grandfather's estate, learning the ropes from the bottom up. Cleaning massive vats, stomping grapes, and sampling wines he could never afford — it's all part of the education. And here's where the film starts to lose its way: we're given a series of vignettes that are charming in isolation but don't quite add up to a coherent whole.

Visuals Over Substance

Dweck and Kershaw's signature visual flair is on full display, especially in their cinematography. Every frame feels like a still from a magazine spread — perfectly composed, with the kind of warmth that makes you want to reach into the screen. The directors are meticulous in their craft, even when they're stretching documentary realism for the sake of beauty.

But here's where I find myself frustrated: there's a point where it becomes clear that this film isn't just about wine — it's about the people who live and dream around it. Yet the characters feel more like illustrations than real people. Enzo is charming, yes, but his journey is a little too clean-cut to be convincing. When he suddenly decides to quit the estate and try his hand at mussels, it feels like a contrivance rather than a natural evolution.

A Romantic Interlude

The film then pivots into a kind of romantic subplot involving Enzo and Céleste, the trainee sommelier. Their relationship is presented with all the visual flair one might expect, but it's not particularly compelling. We're told that they're in love, and we're shown them together, but we never feel like we're getting inside their heads or understanding what draws them to each other.

This romantic detour, which takes over the last act of the film, feels less like a natural progression and more like a plot device to make the story seem more complete. It's a shame, because the central themes — heritage, legacy, and the struggle between tradition and modernity — are interesting enough to be worth exploring in depth.

The Wine That Wasn't

"Burgundy," despite its title, never really gives us a taste of the region's complexity. We get beautiful shots of vineyards, but we don't feel the soil beneath our feet or understand why these particular grapes produce such extraordinary wines. The documentary fails to engage with the deeper cultural and historical narratives that make Burgundy more than just a place where fine wine is made.

Instead, it's a light-hearted romp through a world that's already been mythologized. And while that can be entertaining, it doesn't quite measure up to the emotional weight of films like "The Truffle Hunters" or "Gaucho Gaucho." Those movies had heart and soul, which is what makes them so memorable.

Final Thoughts

So, what do we have here? A film that's easy on the eyes but light on substance. "Burgundy" is like a glass of wine that's lovely to look at but leaves you wanting more complexity and depth. It's a film that will please those who love visual storytelling, but it's not one that will linger in your memory long after the credits roll.

In the end, this isn't a failure of execution, but a lack of ambition. "Burgundy" is an attractive, light-bodied wine doc with a good nose but no legs — a film that's pleasant to watch but doesn't quite make it to the top shelf of cinema.