From 'dog fruit' to darling: India's avocado boom

From Humble Beginnings to Market Darling

When I first heard about the surge in avocado demand in India, it struck me as a curious twist of fate—after all, the fruit was once known locally as 'dog fruit,' a name that reflected its humble beginnings and limited appeal. But now, avocados are not just trendy—they're a promising commercial crop.

This transformation didn't happen overnight. As Sunil Bopaiah, group manager at Cottanad Plantations in Kerala, recalls, avocados were initially planted as shade trees for coffee plantations. "We never planted avocado as our main crop," he explains. "We introduced it as a shade tree for coffee plantations, and only later realised it could become a profitable business."

"Overnight, prices doubled and then kept rising," Bopaiah says, referring to the pivotal moment in 2011 when Bollywood star Shilpa Shetty promoted avocados for skincare.

The avocado's journey from agricultural byproduct to culinary darling is a fascinating case study in how consumer trends can shift markets overnight. For Cottanad Plantations, this meant a strategic pivot. What started as a modest 40-acre plot has now grown into a significant operation, with hopes to scale production to 40 to 50 tonnes within the next few years.

Global Demand, Local Challenges

The story of India's avocado boom is also one of supply and demand. With local production hovering around 8,000–9,000 tonnes annually, while imports reach approximately 15,000 tonnes, there's clearly a gap to be filled—especially as traditional crops like coffee and pepper struggle under changing climatic conditions.

But growing avocados isn't just about planting trees. The journey from seedling to sale requires technical know-how that Indian farmers haven't always had access to. "We completely changed the way we grow avocados after learning from South African experts," Bopaiah notes, highlighting the importance of adapting farming practices to new crop demands.

It's a challenge shared by many entrepreneurs across India. Harshit Godha, founder of Indo-Israel Avocado Nursery in Bhopal, is one such figure. His venture has supplied around 18,000 avocado saplings in just five years—mostly international varieties like Hass and Pinkerton, known for their resilience and high yield.

Technical Hurdles and Innovation

One of the biggest challenges in avocado cultivation is that these trees don't self-pollinate. This means two different varieties must be planted in close proximity for fruit to set properly—a fact that can make or break a commercial orchard.

"If a farmer gets this planting ratio wrong, the trees will fail to produce fruit, no matter how advanced the irrigation tech is," Godha explains. "This single botanical detail is what separates a highly profitable, high-yielding orchard from one that looks great on paper but fails in reality."

The technical demands of avocado farming go beyond simple planting. From grafting rootstock to choosing the right variety for local conditions, the process involves a blend of science and artistry that Indian farmers are only now beginning to master.

Local Efforts and Domestic Varieties

In parallel with imported varieties, there's also a push to improve indigenous cultivars. Dr Ganeshan Karunakaran from the ICAR-Indian Institute of Horticultural Research in Bengaluru is leading a breeding project focused on standardizing Indian avocado trees.

"The biggest issue with the avocado trees in India are that every backyard tree is genetically different," he notes. "That is why Indian markets are flooded with mixed fruit of varying quality. Standard varieties are essential if we want a reliable commercial market."

Dr Karunakaran's work has produced two new varieties, Arka Supreme and others, aimed at bringing consistency and higher yields to Indian farms. But challenges remain—particularly in preventing the spread of diseased or unregulated plants that could devastate early adopters.

The Human Element: From Farmer to Chef

For farmers like Shiju Sebastian, who dedicated two acres to avocado cultivation in Wayanad, the promise is real. "Avocado will never fail you. It's such a loving and lovable fruit," he says, expressing his personal commitment to the crop. This sentiment reflects a growing trend among Indian producers: a belief that local avocados can meet market needs if supported with proper training, infrastructure, and marketing.

But the demand doesn't stop at the farm gate. In Mumbai's culinary scene, chefs like Hussain Shahzad from Hunger Inc. Hospitality are navigating the trade-offs between imported and local produce. "We have explored different varieties of avocados available in India, but the imported ones currently offer the consistency we need in terms of flavour, texture, size, and ripening," he admits.

Still, there's a shared vision: supporting local agriculture while maintaining high-quality standards. As Shahzad puts it, "Supporting Indian agriculture and working with indigenous ingredients is central to how we approach food."

The Future of Avocado in India

With the right support, India has all the ingredients for a successful avocado revolution. The country's agricultural diversity, combined with growing interest in health-conscious diets and global culinary trends, creates fertile ground for expansion.

But success hinges not just on the availability of good trees or farming techniques—it also requires a shift in mindset among farmers, suppliers, and consumers. For now, the journey from 'dog fruit' to darling is still underway, but with promising signs that Indian avocados may soon be ready for prime time.