When Beauty Becomes Obsession
When I first encountered Ellie-May's TikTok video, I was struck not just by the carefully curated routine but by the age at which she began her journey into the world of skincare. At just eight years old, she was already applying toners, serums, and concealers with the confidence of a seasoned beauty influencer. Her videos, filled with the kind of enthusiasm that only comes from genuine passion, showcased a young girl whose digital presence had already become a substantial income source for her family.
This is not an isolated case. The rise of social media content creators among children has become increasingly common. What began as a pandemic-era pastime—trying on new products and sharing them with friends—has transformed into a full-fledged industry. According to my research, more than 300,000 followers now watch Ellie-May's videos, where she demonstrates skincare routines that would be considered overkill for adults, let alone children.
"Being content creators has transformed our lives," Sophie, Ellie-May's mother, told me during our video call from their home in the South East of England. "So many other young kids just wanted to know about Ellie's skincare routine and, well, it just took off."
The phenomenon isn't limited to Ellie-May. A snapshot conducted by Pai, a skincare brand, revealed that nearly half of 1,500 girls aged nine to twelve use multiple skincare products weekly, with half of those using them to address what they perceive as skin issues.
Skincare's Dark Side
While the beauty industry may have long targeted women in their thirties and forties, now we're seeing a marked shift. Young girls are being pressured into skincare routines that, while marketed as gentle, often contain active ingredients like retinol that can be harmful to developing skin.
Dr. Jean Ayer, an NHS consultant and private dermatologist based in Stockport, has seen the effects firsthand. "At best, they don't need these products," she explains. "At worst, they contain harmful ingredients that can damage delicate young skin."
One of the most concerning trends is the rise in contact dermatitis and acne among children using high-end skincare. Retinol, which speeds up skin cell turnover to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, is particularly dangerous for children whose skin cells are already renewing at a rapid pace. This can result in what Ayer terms "retinol burn"—a condition that damages the skin barrier and leads to long-term sensitivity.
It's not just about the immediate effects. Dr. Ayer has also observed an increase in young people suffering from frontal fibrosing alopecia, a type of hair loss linked to aggressive skincare practices. The growing trend of applying heavy creams and lotions to young skin may be contributing to this condition.
The Psychological Toll
But beyond the physical consequences, there's a psychological dimension that experts are only beginning to understand. The term 'cosmeticorexia'—an obsession with flawless skin from a young age—is gaining traction among dermatologists and academics alike.
Professor Giovanni Damiani, an Italian dermatologist, conducted interviews with 55 patients aged between 8 and 14 years old who displayed signs of cosmeticorexia. His findings were alarming: these children were mobile-phone obsessed, spending hours watching skincare videos on social media, using up to ten different products daily, and avoiding social interaction without makeup.
Alberto Stefana, a psychologist in Italy who co-authored research with Damiani, explains that this is more than just vanity. "The children who become obsessed with skincare tend to be driven by what they see on social media," he says. "So their self-esteem becomes based on how many likes they get or what people have said in their comments."
This dependence on online validation has created a dangerous feedback loop where children measure their worth through digital metrics. The result? Anxiety, embarrassment, and even shame in children as young as seven or eight.
Industry Responsibility?
The skincare industry's response has been mixed. Some brands are stepping up efforts to educate consumers, while others have remained largely silent. The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) in the UK has noted that it's monitoring developments closely but hasn't taken formal regulatory action yet.
Meanwhile, companies like LVMH, which owns Sephora and Benefit cosmetic brands, have come under scrutiny from the Italian Competition Authority for potentially targeting young consumers through covert marketing strategies involving micro-influencers. A spokesperson for LVMH stated they are cooperating with authorities and reaffirming their strict compliance with Italian regulations.
However, this response has done little to address the core issue: that children are not only being encouraged to use products intended for adults but are also being taught to see beauty as something that must be achieved through constant maintenance.
The Long Road Ahead
As we continue to navigate the digital age, it's essential to recognize that our children's experiences online shape their self-perception in profound ways. The pursuit of 'glass skin' may seem harmless, but it represents a fundamental shift in how we think about beauty and identity.
The responsibility lies not just with social media platforms, but also with the skincare industry, educators, and parents. We must ask ourselves: what kind of world are we creating for our children?
As Professor Jessica Ringrose from University College London puts it, "Children are seeing this content and then thinking it represents the 'good life', the ideal way of being. And if they can't achieve this 'perfect look' or this 'perfect life' that's being sold to them, then they think they are failing in some way."
Our challenge is not to eliminate social media or beauty entirely but to ensure that children grow up with a healthy understanding of their own worth. This means teaching them to appreciate their natural beauty and to be discerning consumers of the content they consume.
The path forward is complex, but one thing remains clear: we cannot afford to ignore the long-term implications of our children's digital experiences. The cost of 'glass skin' might be higher than we realize—particularly for the next generation.
Key Facts
- Primary Entity: Cosmeticorexia
- Age group affected: Children and adolescents
- Social media platform mentioned: TikTok
- Industry growth: Multi-billion-pound industry
- Product concern: Anti-ageing ingredients in children's skincare
- Health risk: Retinol burn and contact dermatitis
- Psychological impact: Body dysmorphic disorder crossover
- Regulatory action: Italian Competition Authority investigations
Background
Social media is driving a surge in children's skincare routines, raising concerns among experts about long-term health and psychological impacts. This emerging phenomenon, termed cosmeticorexia, describes the obsessive pursuit of 'flawless' skin among children and adolescents, leading to an unhealthy reliance on beauty products from a young age. The trend has been fueled by content creators like 13-year-old Ellie-May, who began her skincare routine at age eight and now has over 330,000 followers. The industry is rapidly growing, with products containing anti-ageing ingredients being marketed to young audiences, despite concerns about physical and psychological harm. Experts are calling for increased regulation as more children use sophisticated skincare products that may contain harmful ingredients.
Quick Answers
- What is cosmeticorexia?
- Cosmeticorexia is a term coined by dermatologists and academics describing an unhealthy obsession with achieving 'flawless' skin from a young age, leading to obsessive use of cosmetic products.
- Who is Ellie-May?
- Ellie-May is a 13-year-old from the south east of England who began her skincare routine at age eight and now has over 330,000 followers on TikTok.
- When did cosmeticorexia become a concern?
- Cosmeticorexia became a concern as social media platforms like TikTok popularized elaborate skincare routines among children and adolescents.
- Where is cosmeticorexia most prevalent?
- Cosmeticorexia is most prevalent on social media platforms, particularly TikTok, where young girls showcase their multi-step skincare routines to large audiences.
- Why is cosmeticorexia concerning?
- Cosmeticorexia is concerning because it can lead to physical health issues such as retinol burn and contact dermatitis, as well as psychological impacts including body dysmorphic disorder and anxiety.
- How does cosmeticorexia affect children?
- Cosmeticorexia affects children by causing physical harm through exposure to adult skincare products with anti-ageing ingredients, and psychological harm through social media pressure that impacts self-esteem.
- What are the health risks of cosmeticorexia?
- Health risks include retinol burn, contact dermatitis, eczema-like rashes, long-term skin sensitivity, and frontal fibrosing alopecia from overuse of skincare products.
- Is there regulatory action on cosmeticorexia?
- Yes, the Italian Competition Authority has launched investigations into LVMH regarding their marketing practices involving young micro-influencers and product warnings for children.
Frequently Asked Questions
What items are missing from cosmeticorexia?
Cosmeticorexia involves the obsessive use of multiple skincare products by children, often including anti-ageing ingredients that can be harmful to young skin.
How is cosmeticorexia different from adult skincare?
Cosmeticorexia differs from adult skincare because it specifically targets children and adolescents with products designed for anti-ageing markets, which are not appropriate for young, delicate skin.
What is the psychological impact of cosmeticorexia?
The psychological impact includes anxiety, embarrassment, and potential body dysmorphic disorder as children base their self-esteem on social media feedback and comparisons.
What products are most commonly used in cosmeticorexia?
Products commonly used include those with anti-ageing ingredients like retinol, serums, toners, and face creams that are typically marketed to adults but are being used by children.
How does social media contribute to cosmeticorexia?
Social media platforms like TikTok promote elaborate skincare routines through influencers, creating pressure on young girls to achieve 'flawless' skin and compare themselves to others.
What is the cost of cosmeticorexia routines?
The average cost of skincare routines posted by under-18s was £125, requiring replenishment every three to four months, making it expensive for families to maintain.
Source reference: https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/cx212x41evwo


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